When Betty and I first visited Haida Gwaii in 2022, we didn’t realize how much this archipelago off the northwest coast of British Columbia would get into our blood. Formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, Haida Gwaii is the home of the Haida Nation, people who have occupied the islands for millennia, dating back to at least the ice age.
During our trip, we explored forests, beaches, campgrounds and communities, mostly on northern Graham Island. We were impressed by all we saw, and especially with the people, who were very friendly and helpful. But what we didn’t expect was how the unique, mystical, coming together of sea, forest and wild landscapes would settle into our souls as a special place to be.
We had intended to visit Gwaii Haanas National Park on Moresby and associated islands in southern Haida Gwaii during our trip, but the tour company we booked cancelled the trip because of foul weather. Time constraints prevented us from rebooking. However, we kept hearing how special the national park is to understanding the Haida story and culture. So, we decided to return to Haida Gwaii in 2023 to make the trip to Gwaii Haanas National Park.
Unlike most national parks in southern Canada, you can’t drive to Gwaii Haanas on a paved highway or expect to find modern campgrounds, complete with hookups for your RV. To get to this national park you must take a boat or floatplane. There are no designated campsites—all camping is primitive with specific rules to ensure minimal disturbance. As well, there are no maintained trails through the landscape. In other words, Gwaii Haanas is a truly wild national park!
If you’re travelling independently (self-guided by kayak or other boat), you must make reservations ahead of time and attend an orientation session. If you’re using one of the tour companies licensed to operate in the park, they will book your reservation for you and provide the orientation. We booked a 4-day tour of the park with Moresby Explorers].
The Haida
The park is co-managed by Parks Canada and the Haida Nation, the first such cooperatively managed park in the country. The agreement to co-manage the park did not come easily. Like other First Nations people in Canada, the Haida suffered under the federal Indian Act (1876) in which, among other injustices, their children were forcibly sent to residential schools to be assimilated into the dominant society. This combined with the Potlach Ban in 1885 seriously disrupted the culture and economy of the Haida and other coastal indigenous people.
Mining and logging came to Haida Gwaii as it did to indigenous lands across Canada. While they offered employment to some, these industries also defaced lands sacred to the Haida. In November of 1985, several members of the Haida Nation put up a blockade on a logging road on Lyell Island, in what is now Gwaii Haanas NP, in protest of the ongoing logging of old growth forests on Haida Gwaii. The blockade resulted in a standoff between the Haida, the loggers and the police that lasted two weeks. Many Haida were arrested, including elders. The news stories and images spurred nationwide awareness of the issue and support for the Haida. The result was an agreement in 1987 between the Haida and the governments of Canada and British Columbia, establishing Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area, and Haida Heritage Site. The South Moresby Agreement was signed at Windy Bay on Lyle Island within sight of where the logging protest occurred.
The Watchmen
In response to growing tourist interest in the ancient village sites found in southern Haida Gwaii, the Haida began the Watchmen program in 1981 to protect the sites and explain to visitors their importance as the resting places of Haida ancestors. At first the watchers were volunteers who lived at the sites during the tourist season. When Gwaii Haanas NP was created, the Watchmen Program became more formalized and supported by Parks Canada. Two to four Watchmen are at each village site and provide interpretation to a maximum of twelve people at a time.
The following is a brief photo essay of some of the highlights of our trip through Gwaii Haanas.
Day 1
Moresby Camp is an old logging camp that now serves as the gateway to Gwaii Haanas. It is an hour’s drive from Sandspit, on a series of logging roads. There, we boarded a Morseby Explorers Zodiac for the start of our adventure. On that first day, we explored some ancient Haida villages outside the national park, where our guide Bryan described how houses were constructed and the meaning of the totem poles erected around them.
Totem Poles
The Haida and other coastal Pacific Northwest indigenous people carved and erected totem poles to artfully illustrate their family histories, mythologies and important events. There are several different kinds of totem poles, including welcome poles, house poles, mortuary poles and memorial poles.
Day 2
The target for the second day’s trip was the UNESCO World Heritage site, SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island), near the southern tip of the Haida Gwaii archipelago.
We spent the night of the second day in Rose Harbour on Kunghit Island, not too far from SGang Gwaay. Rose Harbour is a former whaling station and the only privately held land within Gwaii Haanas. There, residents offer accommodation services for travellers.
Day 3
On the morning of the third day we awoke to some fog, calm water and little wind. Bryan informed us it might be a good day to go to Cape St. James at the extreme southern tip of Haida Gwaii. He explained that such a trip is often difficult for small boats because of the rough water where the North Pacific Ocean meets the waters of the Hecate Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound. We all agreed it was worth a try.
And it was!
Bryan told us that this was the calmest he had ever seen the water around Cape St. James. As a result he decided to take us to the truly extreme tip of Haida Gwaii, the Kerouard Islands.
On our return trip we came across some Humpback Whales raising their tails high out of the water and slapping them on the surface to herd krill and small fish into a ball so they can be eaten. We felt privileged to be able to watch this exercise and hear the tail slapping and large exhales of air in what must have been exhausting activity.
Day 4
On the last day of our trip we made a leisurely excursion to the ancient village of Tanu, where Watchers Grace and her daughter showed us this village site and the sacred grave yard where the ashes of famous Haida artist Bill Reid are buried. Artist Emily Carr was a frequent visitor to this village when it was occupied and painted its many totem poles and houses.
From Tanu we returned to Moresby Camp and our van ride back to Sandspit. All in all, it was a very successful trip, helped along by the great weather. Betty and I thank guide Bryan and assistant Jean for their skills, competence, and perseverance in ensuring everyone had a trip of a lifetime. We also thank the Moresby Explorers support staff at the Floating Lodge and in headquarters, who also ensured a memorable trip to this World Apart.